The Cotswolds, where wealthy English people
come to spent their autumn years polishing tea sets and rambling. The age
profile is a little on the high side. The local chemist in Broadway had a
bumper special on Tena pants – you get the picture.
More of that later, but first Le Manoir in
the outskirts of Oxford. This is Raymond Blanc’s hotel and restaurant that we’d
splashed out for a night’s stay and dinner in his 2 star eatery. It was snowing
as we arrived in our rented Zipcar. We pulled up next to the Mercs, Jags and
Bentleys and I casually tossed the keys to our Golf to the valet.
Well, this place is perfect. I couldn’t
find a single fault. We were escorted to our room by a very pleasant and
attentive chap who explained all the gizmos in our enormous room, although I
don’t think Mags took any of this in as she couldn’t stop staring at the
gigantic free standing cast iron bath tub that she duly disappeared into for
the next 2 hours while sipping Krug.
Dinner was just outstanding, we both had
wagyu beef which melted in our mouths and was washed down by a bottle of Claret
that actually cost more than the room which I thought was quite an achievement.
Next morning we strolled around the beautiful grounds including the vegetable
and herb gardens where much of the food for the restaurant is grown. Not a lot
to see there in mid February except soil, but there is an ornamental Japanese
garden where we meditated for a few seconds as you do.
Finally,
we had to drag ourselves away and we motored westward to Tena pants Broadway.
Billed as the prettiest village in England, Broadway certainly is picturesque.
16th and 17th century yellow limestone cottages line the
streets with manicured lawns and window boxes, those tea sets sparking through
the lead lined windows. We stayed in the Lygon Arms, an imposing 16th
century hotel located in the middle of the high street. A beautiful building
unfortunately managed and staffed by a bunch of idiots – more Faulty Towers
than Le Manoir – but still pretty amusing. We had to queue to check in an out, waiting
patiently for the staff to stop arguing amongst themselves. Still, it is
superbly located, the room was OK, and we really didn’t spend much time there
as we’d come to walk. The Cotswold way passes through the village and we picked
it up on our first day and walked to the Broadway Tower. The biblical rainfall
that started last April had finally abated and we had 3 days of clear blue
skies. Soon we were huffing and puffing up to the Tower where a crusty old chap
smoothly relieves you of a fiver for the pleasure of walking up the stone
staircase to the top where there’s spectacular views of the Severn vale with
South Wales just visible on the horizon. The tower was built for Lady Coventry
in 1799 and stands proudly alone at the top of Cleave hill, the second highest
point in the Cotswolds. The tower later served as a printing press and as a
retreat for artists William Morris and Edward Burne-Jones. There’s a thoughtful
and interesting exhibition inside spread about its four floors.
We had a very enjoyable evening in the one
establishment on the high street that isn’t an antique shop or café, but a
bright and bustling Italian restaurant. Of course, the day after our
anniversary is Valentine’s day, so we don’t usually go out as we’re petty much
passed the glass of Pinot Grigio and a red rose stage in our relationship. We
turned up early and squeezed in thinking that we’d be in and out before we were
surrounded by love struck teenagers. No such problem as we were soon joined by
several pairs of love struck oldies. We relaxed and enjoyed some live music
courtesy of some genuine young people shipped in specially no doubt.
